Ocean Fresh's seaweed farmers © Ocean Fresh personal documentary for LookGoodFeelGoodId Selama kurang lebih dua puluh lima tahun, Prof. Linawati Hardjito sebagai seorang profesor di bidang bioteknologi kelautan melakukan berbagai penelitian mengenai rumput laut, sebelum akhirnya menjadi pencetus produk marine bioactive skin care, Ocean Fresh. Gelar Master dan PhD-nya yang didapatkan dari Queensland University, membuka perspektif dan cakrawalanya bahwa rumput laut diyakini sebagai komoditas masa depan. Menyadari bahwa Indonesia adalah negara maritim terbesar di dunia, hal yang paling penting dalam pembuatan produk Ocean Fresh adalah keterlibatan masyarakat. Ocean Fresh's seaweed farmers © Ocean Fresh personal documentary for LookGoodFeelGoodId Khususnya, petani dan nelayan di pesisir daerah Jawa Tengah, Jawa Barat, Sulawesi Tenggara, NTB, Sulawesi Selatan, dan Maluku Tenggara. PT. Karisma Bahari Nusantara (Kabin) yang membawahi Ocean Fresh, menerapkan teknologi budaya, pasca panen dan pengolahan sebagai tahap pemberdayaan teknologi sederhana kepada para petani rumput laut tersebut. Kores, salah satu petani rumput laut menjelaskan bahwa teknologi ini berhasil meningkatkan pendapatannya dari Rp 300.000 menjadi Rp. 3.000.000 setiap bulannya. Faris Nurfauzi, COO PT. Kabin and seaweed farmers © Ocean Fresh personal documentary for LookGoodFeelGoodId
“Teknologi tersebut menjadikan petani tidak hanya menjual rumput laut sebagai bahan mentah. Bahan yang sudah diolah sebagian ini memberikan dampak pada harga yang juga meningkat,” Faris Nurfauzi sebagai co-founder dan Chief Operating Officer dari PT. Kabin, dengan sabar berusaha memenuhi rasa keingintahuan kami. Teknologi pengolahan rumput laut terintegrasi yang telah dipatenkan oleh Prof. Linawati Hardjito tak hanya melakukan hal tersebut dan mereduksi dampak buruk pada alam. Namun, juga mengolah limbah menjadi produk bernilai lebih seperti pupuk tinggi nutrisi, media tanam cabai atau jamur. Hampir lima tahun Ocean Fresh berdiri secara independen menjunjung tiga nilai utama. Memberdayakan lebih dari 500 petani serta nelayan di pesisir Indonesia, ramah lingkungan maupun bebas uji coba pada hewan, dan mengacu pada uji penelitian akademis. Hasil uji penelitian akademis tersebut membuktikan, serangkaian produk Ocean Fresh dari pembersih, krim, scrub, masker, dan serum dapat menjadi one stop solution product untuk berbagai permasalahan kulit wajah. Seperti, mencerahkan kulit kusam, merawat kulit berjerawat, dan mencegah tanda-tanda penuaan. Selain rumput laut, dalam rangkaian produknya terdapat pula ekstrak xylocarpus atau mangrove sebagai agen pencerah wajah, tabir surya alami dan penghambat enzim penangkal resiko kanker kulit. Serta, ekstrak kulit udang sebagai pengawet alami, pengikat lemak dan minyak yang juga efektif melawan bakteri penyebab jerawat. Lalu, apa rahasia kesempurnaan formulasi ilmiah ramah lingkungan berbasis pemberdayaan masyarakat dari Ocean Fresh? Keluarga adalah pondasi paling kuat yang mendasari berdirinya PT. Kabin. Faris Nurfauzi sebagai COO dan co-founder merupakan anak kandung dari Prof. Linawati Hardjito. Sahabat Ibu Lina semasa di Institut Pertanian Bogor, Diah Setianingrum sebagai salah satu shareholder adalah orang pertama yang mencoba seluruh produk Ocean Fresh sebelum dipasarkan luas. Hamid Muktashim yang menjabat sebagai CEO PT. Kabin sendiri adalah anak dari Ibu Diah, yang kemudian menjadi salah satu dari 100 finalis kompetisi The Big Start Indonesia sebagai hasil kerja keras dari Tim Ocean Fresh. Look Good Feel Good Indonesia menyuarakan advokasi agar masyarakat Indonesia mengenali produk lokal lebih dalam dan mengetahui berbagai produk yang bukan hanya memperlakukan pekerjanya dengan adil, namun juga memberikan pemberdayaan yang layak. Inilah cerita dibalik produk perawatan kulit masyarakat Indonesia dan usaha Ocean Fresh menciptakan kulit, masyarakat dan lingkungan untuk menjadi lebih baik. ---- For the past 25 years, Linawati Hardjito as a marine biotechnology professor, has been researching seaweed for period of times before she finally founded marine bioactive skin care product, Ocean Fresh. Her master and PhD from Queensland University, opens up new perspectives and horizons that seaweed is a future commodity. Realizing that Indonesia is world’s biggest archipelago, the most important thing behind Ocean Fresh products is communities participation and empowerment. Specifically, coastal farmers in Central Java, West Java, Southeast Sulawesi, West Nusa Tenggara, South Sulawesi and Southeast Maluku. PT. Karisma Bahari Nusantara (Kabin) which oversees Ocean Fresh, applies cultural technology, post-harvest technology and processing technology as an empowerment technological step to the coastal farmers. Kores, one of the seaweed farmers explained that this technology succeeded in increasing his income from Rp 300,000 to Rp. 3,000,000 per month. "This technology makes farmers not only sell seaweed as raw materials. Partially processes materials have an impact on prices that are also increase,” Faris Nurfauzi as co-founder and Chief Operating Officer of PT. Kabin, patiently tried to meet our curiosity. Integrated seaweed processing technology patented by Prof. Linawati Hardjito not only empowering coastal farmers and reduce the negative impact on environment. However, it also turn waste into more valuable products such as high nutrient fertilizers, plus the growing media for chili and mushroom. Nearly five years, Ocean Fresh stands independently upholds three key values. Empower more than 500 farmers coastal of Indonesia, environmentally friendly and free of animal test, also refers to academic research procedures. Results of the academic research test proved, a series of Ocean Fresh products from cleansers, creams, scrubs, masks, and serum can be a one stop solution product for various facial skin problems. Such as, brighten dull skin, treat acne prone skin, and prevent signs of aging. In addition to seaweed, a series of Ocean Fresh products also includes xylocarpus extract or mangrove as facial brightening agents, natural sunscreen and enzyme inhibitors of skin cancer. As well as shrimp shell extract as a natural preservative, fat and oil binders, and also effective against acne-causing bacteria. Then, what is the secret of environmentally friendly scientific formulation based on communities empowerment from Ocean Fresh? Family is the most powerful foundation that underlies the establishment of PT. Kabin. Faris Nurfauzi as COO and co-founder, Prof. Linawati Hardjito’s son. Madame Lina’s good friend at Bogor Agricultural University, Diah Setianingrum, one of the shareholder was the first to try all the products of Ocean Fresh before being marketed widely. Hamid Muktashim who served as CEO of PT. Kabin itself, son of Madame Diah, who later became one of the 100 finalists of The Big Start Indonesia competition as a result of the Ocean Fresh team hardwork. Look Good Feel Good Indonesia voices advocacy for Indonesians to recognize local products more deeply and to know products that not applying fair-trade system, but also providing communities empowerment. This is our skin care story, Indonesian local product named Ocean Fresh and its efforts to making skin, communities & environmental looking good © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId
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Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week 2018, Batik and Tenun Collection by Wilsen Willim in Collaboration with Parang Kencana Parang Kencana well known as luxurious collection of batik and woven textiles, one of Indonesia's finest fabrics heritage. In the other hand, our perspectives sees Wilsen Willim designs closely relates with oversized apparel, white shirts, outer and tailored blazer. Honestly, it’s hard to imagine and predict the result of two strong brands combine together. A day before the show, the teaser came up. Our opinion be like, “whoa, it’s so Wilsen. But wait, we still recognize the luxurious textures of Parang Kencana’s fabrics.” Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week 2018, Batik and Tenun Collection by Wilsen Willim in Collaboration with Parang Kencana © LookGoodFeelGoodId It may sound very cliché, but the differences between two of them united. Their collaboration is not like oil and water, it more like a pair of shoes that cannot changing the position, but complementing each other. We cannot forget how inexhaustibly Wilsen effort to upholding the sustainability aspects in every designs that he makes, or how amaze we see his collections on the same floor alongside with international brand like Calvin Klein, Kate Spade, Hugo Boss, and Paul Smith in Fenwick Department Store – London. Wilsen Willim X Parang Kencana in Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week 2018 © LookGoodFeelGoodId But Wilsen, always beyond our expectation. We always believe that fashion is a tool of communication, and the essentials part of communication is when the meaning of the messages can be conveyed and accepted well enough. As the editor of Look Good Feel Good Indonesia and directly saw his collections last week, March 23rd 2018, we can fully understand the exact meanings of what Wilsen wants to portray as he explained after the show. “When Plaza Indonesia curating designer to be paired with batik houses, Parang Kencana gave me a lot of freedom to explore cuts unusual they do. But again, the cut is not too ‘alien’ enough to call extreme. I play with the classic silhouette and develops fabric manipulation that still completely highlight Parang Kencana’s signature fabrics.” © photo by Wilsen Willim collections © photo by Wilsen Willim collections And, finally we get what Wilsen want it to be. The designs pictures independent and strong personality of a person, which is we considered as Wilsen Willim signature style, also the ethnic side of Parang Kencana’s fabric itself. So, what is the ‘secret recipe’ behind Wilsen magical hand in this collections which he never done before? He said that a quote by his favorite editor—Diana Vreeland—was circling his mind, “you’re not supposed to give people what they want, you’re supposed to give them what they don’t know that they want yet.” He explains to us the technique that he uses in production way, “I mostly go the other direction, instead of following the soft flow. I decide to glue it with interfusing to stiffen the flowy silk and enhance the shine. I also combine it with more structured elements such as mid-weight cotton and heavy weight wool.” © photo by Wilsen Willim collections One of the most interesting technique Wilsen did this time was the felting technique whereby he blends the wool and silk batik seamlessly. Lastly, he introduce more about classic European tailor cuts and dresses also embellish it with rice beads and Swarovski. And our most favorite part, off course the sustainable aspects! Wilsen still work with the same community of tailor craftsmen and keep maintaining the wonderful bond. He just celebrating one of the tailor craftsmen’s member birthday in a sushi restaurant yesterday. the double vertical line from waste fabrics © photo by Wilsen Willim collections He also often uses waste fabric. In this collections, those waste fabrics he used the buttons and shoes wrapped on. It’s not Wilsen if he is not making origami and ribbons from those waste fabrics. shoes cover from waste fabrics © photo by Wilsen Willim collections
Every little thing in this world, has got to have plus and minus. Nothing is perfect. But, our perspectives cannot see the imperfections of this collection of Wilsen Willim. Can you? © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId In London, one of the city that well known as a central of fashion, my perspectives of fashion sustainability is getting wider and wider as I meet Anna-Maria Hesse, fashion designer and co-creator of sustainable brand, and Tamsin Blanchard, Fashion Features Director of Tank Magazine. Based on Anna experience in fashion industry, she wants to do the right thing by own a shop where she can notice the background of the clothing that everyone buy and in which way it produce. In any other way Tamsin Blanchard sees that consumers have to make a change, because it is the implication of the human nature to want things for a cheap price. It can be done by using our social media voices, asking the brand using hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes as the part of contributing to fashion revolution movement. Also, it is the brand duty to listen to them. Then, the consumers start to understand what is the supply chain and what is happening in the garment factory. My curiousity leads to what kind of perspectives that someone who runs a fashion retail or a fashion business will explain to me. For this reason, I met Merryn Leslie who always had an economic business that has something different which also has a genuine and unique selling point. Merryn Leslie and 69B Boutique collections © Adi Perkasa “I work in fashion for decades, I kind of develop a dislike the industry for what I saw. Practices of illegal human rights, and people behind the industry is dying.” Merryn said that for decades, the industry does cleaning itself up which is really positive. But, still have a lot of works to do. “Things that fashion retail need to realize is that consumers love sustainable product. They will get their investment back and more, it is very simple. Even if you are not passionate about sustainability you have to do it or you are actually missing out on a business opportunity with consumers,” said Merryn excited. She told me things with reasons. Merryn have been running 69B Boutique for more than 6 years, and have incredibly loyal customers with a very positive experience. Merryn also told me that their loyal customers do all of the marketing when somebody ask them, “I love your jacket, I love your bags, I love your hats, where did you get that?” They will definitely answer, “Well, I bought them from a shop called 69B and all of their product is sustainable. This made from a water bottles, this made by a company where the children of the workers have to get to school and they get a free tuition and backpack from the company.” And the person whom been told will be like, “Wow, sounds great! I will definitely be going there!” According to Merryn, only small amount of people that do not believe it. Because, it is a very positive business decision to do. It is kind of increasing the business’s margin, increasing the customer loyalty, and also the business selling a real story. Not a fake fashion lifestyle story, which consumers getting sick and tired of. Merryn guarantees that when her customers bought things from 69B Boutique, their purchase has been made in socially and environmentally responsible way. “We have a strict policy on transparency and accountability that all of our brands must adhere to. On our customers behalf, we ask them like who made your stuff?” 69B Boutique curated more than 76 brands that they sell on their boutique. They do not have a lot of waste stock at all and almost does not have returns product from the customers. “When we go buying we are very careful with numbers. We try everything on, we turn things inside out, we look at the quality, we engage with all of the products that end up here,” added Merryn. It concluded that 69B Boutique have a super low excess stock. In Merryn opinion all excess waste in fashion is a huge problem and she thinks that customers need an awareness about this, “Sometimes they also being fooled. Big brand cut their labels out when they have a lot of waste, then sell them out to someone who sells again to consumers.” A different perspective in fashion business comes from Sara Arnold, someone who originally studied fashion design and marketing. Who later had a master degree in business. At first she want to design and have her own brand. Because, she wanted it to be sustainable and she saw that there is a massive problem in the industry. “I realized that we do not need more things, we need solution to these issue,” Said Sara. As someone who spend childhood in Jakarta, the capital city of Indonesia, Sara knew that a lot of people in London don’t own car not like in Jakarta. If we buy things to own it, it wasted resources. Because, almost of 80% Car spend times in car park. Also, the tax to own a car in London really-really high. Not include petrol and maintenance. So, in London we pay the car by a membership, for a rent. “If we can rent a car, why do not we rent clothes?” ask Sara. For her, it does not matter if the industry makes it in organic cotton, if they still make a thousand of them it is not sustainable. Sara Arnold while sharing her perspectives about fashion sustainability issues and her story behind her business © Adi Perkasa
When the industry persuading people to buy something that they do not really need, that is the root of problem. “I think mentality around ownership in the next 20 years is going to change a lot,” stated Sara. That is why Sara think about solutions to fashion sustainability issues, but also which can allow to creativity. Dressing someone in sustainable way, looks chic and creative at the same time is always be her goal to founding Higher Studio. Higher Studio is like a fashion library for a woman based in London. Just like library, we have to be a member first to borrow items. Every member has to return the item due to the deadline. Also, if they damaged or lost an item, they have to be responsible for the things that they have done. There are several choices of the designer’s work in Higher Studio “Beside renting, government can also provide solutions through these issues,” suggest Sara. For example, in Indonesia we have to pay our plastic bags when we are shop at the market. Sara noted this as a very good solution and the fastest way to really create change. Why? It comes from the government, so we also have to put pressure in the government to make laws. We can care about sustainability, but in the end of the day we have to feed our family. “What really creates action is when we see that kind of economic solution, when plastic bag now cost something. Then we will re-think again do we really need plastic bag? And most of the time we don’t,” added Sara Arnold. That is two different business perspectives in fashion sustainability. Everyone may have a different opinion, or it may be a way to see things. As long as it has good purposes, there are no right or wrong © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId It is a once in lifetime experience, that I had to visit London, one of the city well known for being a fashion central and to have workshops about fashion sustainability. I had a chance to meet several fashion sustainability enthusiasts and gain lots of knowledge from them. My turning point to focus on fashion sustainability issues started, when I wrote a journalism artworks article about it and was chosen as one of my country representatives for the journalism conference in Edinburgh, Scotland. I realized that if I tell everyone, about how important and urgent these issues are, I hope that I could make a change for The Mother Earth. The only place that I spent my life these past 22 years. The fashion sustainability issue is not that simple. It is not only about how the fashion industry has to treat the environment well. It has many more angles to it. Quoting Wilsen Willim, an Indonesian fashion designer, who has big intentions about these issues said, that it is not only the fashion industries who has to help their surroundings to live well. It is everyones duty to create a proper ecology, economic, or social aspects of the society. That is why I am eagerly contacted all of the respondents and showed them my curiosity to widen my perspectives about the issue. After I met Tamsin Blanchard, Fashion Features Director of Tank Magazine who has been working in this industry for many years, I felt ashamed of myself after she had only said a few words that changed my view and gave me a different insight. Adi Perkasa and Tamsin Blanchard © Adi Perkasa Tamsin told me that she always was interested in these issues since the early 90’s, when brands like Patagonia, an outdoor clothing manufacturer, made recycled polyester from plastic soda bottles in 1993. I was born in 1994 and it took me 22 years to finally see how fashion damages our surroundings. I feel ashamed of myself to have had a slow response, when Greenpeace International released an investigation, that in 2012 they found out about Citarum River, one of the most polluted rivers in Indonesia which is in my country, contaminated by waste from the fashion industry. A scavenger with his boat in Citarum River which is black and foamy due to the dangerous and poisonous waste, majority from fashion industry © TEMPO / Prima Mulia
“Seeing the beginning of fast fashion was my turning point. How the industry was changing and that it didn’t seem to be right,” said Tamsin about how her fashion sustainability story begin. “People were consuming too many clothes, and it was getting much to cheap. In the United Kingdom, the council started to introduce recycling waste at home. If it started home, I thought why can’t it be in the industry I work in.” The next day, I met Anna-Maria Hesse. Not only co-creator of a brand named Here Today Here Tomorrow (HTHT). HTHT use 100% sheep wool for their durable, biodegradable, and highly sustainable knitwear. Anna-Maria has master degree in fashion and environment. I could see in Anna’s eyes, like they told me that she is one of a kind. Not only having interest to the issues, but she also did a practical master degree in fashion environment study, with the purpose to understand the issues in the fashion industry and learn how to tackle them and treat her surroundings better. “I think when you work in the fashion industry, you see how clothes are being produced. You start to think about the materials-where they are coming from, pollution, pesticides, the water consumption, and people are not paid enough,” Anna sighs. “Me and my colleagues feel uncomfortable to work in that kind of industry and ignoring all of that. We want to know the background, way of the production, and we want to do it the right way.” According to Anna, co-founder of Here Today Here Tomorrow, while they had their own shop, it was important to show and sell products that where ethically and sustainably produced. As designers, makers, they enjoy all of the processes involved in making products, but they do not want to produce more things that people do not need at the end of the day this would add to more landfill. “It is natural for people to buy things, but things that we buy should be beautiful, biodegrade, and sustainable,” said Anna. Tamsin said, fashion sustainability issues are really complex issues and there is no quick fix. We need to have a mindful approach about consumption and waste. Also, to see fashion in such a wider and cultural context. “Why the consumers have to start to make a change? Because it has implications if we buy things that are very cheap.” These issues and what is happening now is everybody’s responsibility. We cannot blame ourselves as consumer to want cheap products, but at the same time we as the consumer have to take responsibilities for the way that we are buying things. Consumers also have to start to understand what is the supply chain and what is happening in the garment factory, “It is up to the consumers to start questioning the brand about who made their clothes and how, also it is the brands duty to listen to them.” Anna explained to me that in one of the cheapest department stores in London a T-Shirts sells for 2 pounds, “A lot of people do not know that you cannot make a cotton based T-Shirt with that cost.” Tamsin agreed to that. Raw material and quality fabric is expensive, but when people pay a high price for clothes it does not mean that the quality is high and the workers get more paid. “Because they are not. They make in the same factories, with the same quality. That is why in fact, it is difficult for consumers to make a decision.” Things that we can conclude is nobody suggesting that they have got the answers for these issues. Still, we have no choice. Rather than to do nothing we have to start talking about it and get people thinking about it. Using our social media voice, asking the brands using hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes as the part of contributing to fashion revolution movement #FashionRevolution. As someone involved a lot in fashion revolution movement, according to Tamsin by joining the movement we can seek out the brand who wants to make a change. In many other ways, it is a small step to change the world by spreading good things. By promoting through our social media the brand that trying to be transparent. Kind of spreading the words, and making snowball effects. We can research and learn about it, it is about finding solutions and having ideas for going different ways. “We can also buy less clothes, buy things that last longer, buy thing that we need and made of good materials, and no plastic. Last and certainly not least build a relationship with someone that designers work with,” suggest Anna. Once again Tamsin and Anna also agreed that one of the solutions is about ensuring the garment workers have a voice and association to join a union. People should not work overtime but have 7/8 hours a day 5 days a week and being paid appropriately. “It is not a sustainable business if you are exploiting people,” stated Tamsin. For that reason, Tamsin Blanchard lately doing a project with a NGO called Micro Finance Organization. It is about the workers finance, how the workers get paid, and it is a really interesting project. Here Today Here Tomorrow, the brand which Anna-Maria Hesse was a co-founder, works together with artisans from the Association for Craft Producers (ACP) in Kathmandu, Nepal. ACP is a nonprofit fair-trade organization certified by the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO). They provide opportunities for low income, primarily female artisans in 15 different districts of Nepal. Each product of Here Today Here Tomorrow is made by hand and provides the artisan who made it with economic and social support. I also met Annya Suhardi, Indonesian graduated distinction student from Material Future, Master Program, in Central Saint Martins, London. She also has a big interest in sustainability, and contributes by making an arcade machine as her thesis project named ‘Phantaspalma’ on purpose challenging the user to become a palm oil industry owner and finding a best solutive way in that industry. Annya intentions is to give information by educative game, that actually palm oil is not that destructive to surround, it helps thousands of peoples to live well. She also told me that building awareness in any communication channel, is having the same important role as solving the problem. It has become my motivation to always write about how important and urgent fashion sustainability issues now © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId Wilsen Willim himself © personal documentary Sarah amazed by the smoothness texture and glittery effects that she feels from her new bamboo fiber material sweater. Furthermore as textile conservator at Smithsonian Institute, this material is a new thing for her ten years ago. Eco-tech Fashion: Rationalizing Technology in Sustainable Fashion is the journal of Sarah Scaturro that begin with a little experiment. She put few strands of yarn in the slide of microscope, and the outcome is shocked her. Bamboo fiber have the same morphology with synthetic fiber. This fiber was made by a chemical technology which have similarities with the viscose rayon. Which an irony, because it is a fiber with the most polluted production process. She is definitely not amused by that. It is because, at that time everyone assumed that bamboo fiber as one of the most sustainable fashion material. “Refers to the manufacturing process, rayon and polyester is one of the most sustainable fashion material. Unfortunately rayon is fabric that easily damage and polyester is the least fabric material that a person wants to wear, it is because of the stifling effect. The fashion items who does not lasts and give comfortable feeling, I think cannot be defined sustainable.” That is what Wilsen Willim said, the promising Indonesian designer who already showcasing his collection twice on Angela Quintell Showrooms in Paris, France, during Ready to Wear Market Week, Paris Fashion Week 2016. Also, his brand currently has space in Fenwick Department Store, Bond Street, London equally with famous international brands. Like, Calvin Klein, Kate Spade, Hugo Boss, and Paul Smith. Yet he has more space than them. As the first winner of Harper’s BAZAAR Asia Newgen Fashion Award 2016 in Jakarta, Wilsen also display his collections in Boutique 51, Cairo, Egypt, and Ganash Boutique, Kuwait City, Kuwait. Growing in the religious family and having a medical background, made Wilsen always remember his mother said that, “Everywhere you go and whatever you do, try to do things that well to your surroundings.” There is only few people realized that this 23 years old designer always optimizing the fashion sustainability component, every time he produces his work. Not even all of his customers. Illustrations of Wilsen Willim © Hasbi Ilman Hakim
The community of tailor craftsmen who work for Wilsen Willim fashion label, were actually a whole family initiated by a couple of husband and wife. While husband led the community by draw and cut the patterns of the fabric, his wife finished and polished. Their daughter starts to do some parts of the graphics component of Wilsen’s design, as a student of graphic design vocational high school in Indonesia. Wilsen and Diaz believe that it is worth it to buy these community of tailor craftsmen with a high price, consider to the relationship between them and also the final outcome. Even they pay them much more way ahead than the wages of Bangladesh garment industry worker, in fact Bangladesh is the second country with biggest number of garment industry exports with 4,83%. At first position there is China with 37,29%, third is Vietnam with 3,99%, India with 3,53% placed in fourth and number five is Indonesia with 1,53%. Meanwhile, when it comes to minimum salary rate of garment industry, Vietnam is leading the number one country with the higher minimum salary on 219%. Indonesia a number behind on 174%, Sri Lanka placed the third with 146%, Bangladesh in fourth with 29% and in the fifth position is Myanmar with also 29 %. All of this is based on Research Note Issues August 2016 of International Labor Organizations. The second core basics to uphold the ethics in a fashion industry strives for the production quantities efficiency and efficiency use of materials. “It is important to make sure that the designer creation will not make more waste,” Diaz said. From Diaz perspective as business director, waste from fashion industry will always increase if there is a wrong distribution system applied. For example, a consignment system in almost of the fashion retail in Indonesia. “The solution for this problem is a transparent distribution and selling system, by determining a rational number of items that the store wants to order. If the items already produced with a certain impossible number only to reach the intentions of the store, what we have to do with the items that left unsold?” said Diaz on point. Designer and workers can also do something to make a less waste of their creation to achieved the efficiency use of materials, demanding a great skill of the designer in a process of patterns making. Patterns is one of the key to do so the fabrics will not produce a lot of waste. After Diaz describing about patterns, Wilsen grab a pen and looking for an empty paper. He started to draw and showing it to me, “Imagine if I draw a pattern here, I would have a few fabrics that having an ugly shape that I could not even use and make more waste.” “But if I draw a pattern here, I would have a better and long fabrics that I could use as another material for my creation.” Wilsen changed his expression easily after drop the pen, he is feeling guilty by using 100% cotton as a main material of all his creation. It is true that he already done everything that he can, to uphold the ethics in his fashion label in purpose of creating a better sustainable life. “But based on my research, cotton plant is contemning the soil with acid and pesticide that used for cotton plant is growing stone inside human body. My consideration about this is because cotton is the most durable fashion material for daily routines nowadays,” said Wilsen. Wilsen believe nobody is perfect, and putting ourselves in a maximum effort is the only possible way to be done. He having his own consideration why he does the things. I also believe that he made his choices because he wants to help his surroundings to live well, and to create a proper ecology, economic, or social aspects of the society. Wilsen sincere purposes is the most important thing. It is because his fashion label is only two years in the making, there is still many process that he and Diaz should take to improve their brand so it always be better. Diaz and Wilsen hope that incident of the Rana Plaza building collapsed, place to produce textile and garment products in Dhaka, Bangladesh, on April 24, 2013, will be a wakeup call for everyone. Especially, the people behind fashion industry. 1,133 victims died as a result of fashion industry that abandoning their surroundings to live well. Also, a failure to create proper ecology, economic, and social aspects of the society © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId Illustrations of the demonstration by Bangladesh garment industry workers after Rana Plaza buildings collapsed and the fashion sustainability enthusiast, Wilsen Willim and Camelia Harahap © Hasbi Ilman Hakim An evolution of Indonesia’s fashion industry for the past ten years bolted fast. A platform for nurturing the new promising talent of fashion designer is held as an annual event, such as Jakarta Fashion Week since 2006 and Indonesia Fashion Forward since 2012. The quality of Indonesian designer cannot be doubted. As a fashion designer, Peggy Hartanto named by Forbes as 30 under 30 in The Arts sector. Following that achievement, Toton Januar also named as a first winner Asia-Pasific International Woolmark Prize in Hongkong last year. Both of them with another fellow Indonesian designer, like Wilsen Willim, Major Miner and Sean & Sheila had successfully presented their collections on Angela Quintell showrooms in Paris, France, during ready to wear market week, Paris Fashion Week. Also, in Fenwick Department Store, Bond Street, London. “As one of the creator of Indonesia Fashion Forward since 2012, and participating as official in other Jakarta Fashion Week program, I see that there is something that should have been changed in current fashion industry,” said Camelia Harahap as Senior Program Manager Arts and Creative Industries, British Council, Indonesia. In the past few year, Camelia job is to build awareness for Indonesian people about how important and urgent fashion sustainability issues is. For her, fashion sustainability is way to build a system in fashion industry that create a positive impact to our surroundings. Which is to the environment and to the social life around the industry. According to Camelia, one of the important things that should have been organized is the behavior of producers by pushing their customers to buy their product. Camelia look very serious explaining her knowledges and efforts about fashion sustainability issues © Adi Perkasa As usual, within a year a fashion label will having two main collections, Fall Winter and Spring Summer. In the middle of every collections, they will have special collections too, such as a Christmas edition. Fashion label used to showcase their Fall Winter and Spring Summer collections on a runway to giving a spare time in a cycle of production, so the workers can finish their works in a pace. But in September 2016 as example, Burberry gave possibilities so their customers having opportunity to buy their collections straight forward after the runway. This phenomenon of production chain which move at a very high speed raises the question, “If the workers are forced to speed up the process, it definitely will be a danger if health, safety and economic risks arise," Camelia said. That seems to be dangerous because according to Camelia experiences, there are lots of components in a production chain. Such as draw the illustration, choose and buy the material, measuring the size, cutting patterns, sewing process, finishing touch, and finally the distribution process. True Cost (2015) is a documentary movie directed by Andrew Morgan exploring the impact of fashion and people. Arif Jebtik as one of the owner of garment factory in Bangladesh showing his anger while being interviewed. “Every fashion retail that use the service of my garment factory, only care about two things. They want a cheap price of a product, with a good quality,” said Arif with anger. Camelia involved on fashion industry for almost 7 years, she can tell that overall Indonesia fashion designer have a good relationship with the workers in a small garment industry. With her job position, Camelia and her team see that Indonesia has the opportunity and potential to share their story and experiences to the world about how is fashion industry in Indonesia actually happen. This is the turning point why British activists have an intention to include Indonesia as part of the Fashion Revolution movement. Illustrations of Camelia Harahap © Hasbi Ilman Hakim
This movement is a simple way to overhaul the prevailing system in the fashion. The goal is to appreciate people, the environment, and provide benefits for all parties. These simple ways also require the fashion industry to be more transparent in implementing their system. Fashion revolution movement push the fashion industry to be transparent, by interact with their consumers about what materials used, where does the clothing produce, who produce it, and in which way they produce it. If everyone takes the role to build this kind of awareness in accordance of safe, clean and fair way for the entire surrounding environment, we can help the amount of clothing that worn in this world. To initiate such interactions, consumers can start a simple step through the social media they own. They can take photos of clothes with the brand label tag positions are pointed at the camera. Upload it to their social media, and also use the hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes. If fashion industry notices the importance of maintaining our circle of life, then it is not a big deal for them to giving an explanation of the process how their making the clothes. It will be more trusting if they explain it by uploading photos of people behind the process with hashtag of #IMadeYourClothes. The Fashion Revolution movement initiated by the collapse of the Rana Plaza building, place to produce textile and garment products in Dhaka, Bangladesh, on April 24, 2013. 1,133 victims died as a result of fashion industry that abandoning their surroundings to live well. Also, a failure to create proper ecology, economic, and social aspects of the society. John Hillary in the movie The True Cost, as Executive Director of War or Want Me said, "The workers at Rana Plaza have reported cracks in the building walls a few days before the event, but they are forced to continue their work." Fashion Revolution Week being held for a various of events one week ahead. Meanwhile, Fashion Revolution is a global movement that can be done for a full year by using hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes and #IMadeYourClothes in social media. In Indonesia itself, this movement began in 2016, precisely when Lucy Siegle, Executive Director of The True Cost did a screening movie in Jakarta Fashion Week. Fashion Revolution agenda this year in Indonesia is slightly different. British Council with Wilsen Willim held an open studio event. "At the last Paris Fashion Week, Fashion Features Director of Tank Magazine, Tamsin Blanchard, made an offer for Wilsen Willim brand," said Diaz Parzada, Wilsen Willim fashion label Business Director. Diaz and Wilsen feel honored to be elected, especially in the event of Fashion Revolution. Their brand is aligned with the world's top designers who also give attention to the issues of fashion sustainability. Open studio is a form of campaign to build awareness to fashion enthusiast. One of them is to showcase how the production process of clothes made. In order of mass media, bloggers, and other fashion enthusiast to share information for their respective environments © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId What is Fashion Sustainability ? There are various perspectives to define fashion sustainability. In general, it is a term which representing the path that everyone must take in order to minimize the negative impact of fashion itself, both in environmental & social aspects surround the fashion industry or even in our own life. We do not have the exact awareness & sufficient insight into the negative impacts that can be result. That is why we are always through the days of wearing clothes that protect our bodies & beautify our appearance without any burden. Now, it is belong to our responsibility to live sustainable, by having the exact awareness & sufficient insight about fashion sustainability issues. Ada berbagai perspektif untuk menjelaskan apakah maksud dari fashion sustainability. Secara umum, istilah ini digunakan untuk menggambarkan jalan yang harus ditempuh kita bersama agar dapat meminimalisir dampak negatif dari fesyen itu sendiri. Baik dalam aspek lingkungan, maupun sosial disekitar industri fesyen dan kehidupan kita sendiri. Kita senantiasa melalui hari-hari dengan mengenakan pakaian yang melindungi tubuh & menghiasi penampilan kita tanpa ada beban sedikit pun, dikarenakan kita tidak memiliki kesadaran penuh dan wawasan yang memadai atas dampak negatif yang dapat dihasilkan. Sehingga hal ini harus menjadi tanggung jawab kita bersama, untuk kemudian menciptakan kondisi kehidupan di sekitar kita agar menjadi jauh lebih baik lagi, dengan memiliki kesadaran penuh dan wawasan yang memadai atas isu fashion sustainability ini. Why Paying Attention to Fashion Sustainability is Important ? On 2012 Greenpeace International released an investigation, that Citarum River in West Java, Indonesia, became one of the most polluted river in the world due to contamination of the fashion industry waste. A year later, on April 24 2013, the place to produce textile & garment products in Dhaka, Bangladesh named Rana Plaza Building collapsed. In result, it become a fashion industry incident with the highest number of 1.133 victims died. It falls down because the industry didn’t provide a proper place / even refurbish the building, also have been known by neglecting the basic needs of their workers. These incidents explicate enough reasons why having the exact awareness & sufficient insight about fashion sustainability issues. Tahun 2012 Greenpeace International merilis sebuah invesitagasi yg telah mereka lakukan, bahwasanya Sungai Citarum di Jawa Barat menjadi salah satu sungai yang paling tercemar mengacu pada kontaminasi dari limbah industri fesyen. Setahun kemudian, pada 24 April 2013 sebuah kawasan untuk memproduksi produk garmen & tekstil di Dhaka, Bangladesh yaitu Gedung Rana Plaza runtuh. Hal ini kemudian menjadi insiden industri fesyen dengan jumlah korban meninggal terbanyak, yakni 1.133 korban. Gedung ini runtuh dikarenakan industri tersebut tidak memberikan tempat yang layak, bahkan tidak juga memiliki niat untuk merenovasinya. Industri ini juga diketahui telah mengabaikan kebutuhan dasar para buruh garmen tersebut. Kedua insiden ini dirasa telah menjelaskan alasan yang cukup, mengapa kita harus memiliki kesadaran penuh & wawasan yang memadai mengenai isu fashion sustainability ini. How to Start & Make a Change ? It take simple efforts to start & make a change. Beginning with cultivate our sense of curiosity, about who made our clothes & how they made it. Using social media, we can upload our picture that showing the label of fashion stuffs that we had. Then, ask & mention that brand with hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes. This step works to pushing the industry to become transparent in the forms of real story from the people who made our clothes & what they actually did in the factory. By following the steps, you already become “fashion revolutionaries”, a person who contribute to a global movement name Fashion Revolution. But to change the world, we need hundreds of thousands of people around the world to take part. It is also could make them having the exact awareness & sufficient insight about fashion sustainability issues. Whether there are many other ways to create our life more sustainable in the terms of fashion, but the power of social media & spreading the words of this issues is having the same important role as solving the problem. Hanya dibutuhkan usaha yang sederhana agar dapat memulai & membuat perubahan. Dimulai dengan menumbuhkan rasa keingintahuan, mengenai siapa yang membuat produk fesyen kita & bagaimana mereka membuatnya. Dengan menggunakan media sosial, unggah gambar yang menunjukkan label dari produk fesyen yang kita miliki. Lalu, gunakan hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes untuk bertanya kepada merek fesyen tersebut. Tahap ini berguna untuk mendorong timbulnya transparansi dalam bentuk pengalaman yang sebenarnya dari mereka yang membuat produk fesyen kita & apa yang sebenarnya mereka lakukan di pabrik. Setelah melakukan tahapan ini, anda telah menjadi “fashion revolutionaries”, seseorang yang berkontribusi dalam sebuah gerakan sedunia yang dinamakan Fashion Revolution. Untuk membuat perubahan, dibutuhkan masa yang masif dari seluruh dunia untuk turut ambil bagian. Mereka pun kemudian dapat memiliki kesadaran penuh & wawasan yang memadai mengenai isu fashion sustainability ini. Meskipun tersedia berbagai cara lain, kekuatan dari sosial media dan menyebarkan informasi atas isu ini sama pentingnya dengan menyelesaikan masalahnya itu sendiri © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId |
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