Wilsen Willim himself © personal documentary Sarah amazed by the smoothness texture and glittery effects that she feels from her new bamboo fiber material sweater. Furthermore as textile conservator at Smithsonian Institute, this material is a new thing for her ten years ago. Eco-tech Fashion: Rationalizing Technology in Sustainable Fashion is the journal of Sarah Scaturro that begin with a little experiment. She put few strands of yarn in the slide of microscope, and the outcome is shocked her. Bamboo fiber have the same morphology with synthetic fiber. This fiber was made by a chemical technology which have similarities with the viscose rayon. Which an irony, because it is a fiber with the most polluted production process. She is definitely not amused by that. It is because, at that time everyone assumed that bamboo fiber as one of the most sustainable fashion material. “Refers to the manufacturing process, rayon and polyester is one of the most sustainable fashion material. Unfortunately rayon is fabric that easily damage and polyester is the least fabric material that a person wants to wear, it is because of the stifling effect. The fashion items who does not lasts and give comfortable feeling, I think cannot be defined sustainable.” That is what Wilsen Willim said, the promising Indonesian designer who already showcasing his collection twice on Angela Quintell Showrooms in Paris, France, during Ready to Wear Market Week, Paris Fashion Week 2016. Also, his brand currently has space in Fenwick Department Store, Bond Street, London equally with famous international brands. Like, Calvin Klein, Kate Spade, Hugo Boss, and Paul Smith. Yet he has more space than them. As the first winner of Harper’s BAZAAR Asia Newgen Fashion Award 2016 in Jakarta, Wilsen also display his collections in Boutique 51, Cairo, Egypt, and Ganash Boutique, Kuwait City, Kuwait. Growing in the religious family and having a medical background, made Wilsen always remember his mother said that, “Everywhere you go and whatever you do, try to do things that well to your surroundings.” There is only few people realized that this 23 years old designer always optimizing the fashion sustainability component, every time he produces his work. Not even all of his customers. Illustrations of Wilsen Willim © Hasbi Ilman Hakim
The community of tailor craftsmen who work for Wilsen Willim fashion label, were actually a whole family initiated by a couple of husband and wife. While husband led the community by draw and cut the patterns of the fabric, his wife finished and polished. Their daughter starts to do some parts of the graphics component of Wilsen’s design, as a student of graphic design vocational high school in Indonesia. Wilsen and Diaz believe that it is worth it to buy these community of tailor craftsmen with a high price, consider to the relationship between them and also the final outcome. Even they pay them much more way ahead than the wages of Bangladesh garment industry worker, in fact Bangladesh is the second country with biggest number of garment industry exports with 4,83%. At first position there is China with 37,29%, third is Vietnam with 3,99%, India with 3,53% placed in fourth and number five is Indonesia with 1,53%. Meanwhile, when it comes to minimum salary rate of garment industry, Vietnam is leading the number one country with the higher minimum salary on 219%. Indonesia a number behind on 174%, Sri Lanka placed the third with 146%, Bangladesh in fourth with 29% and in the fifth position is Myanmar with also 29 %. All of this is based on Research Note Issues August 2016 of International Labor Organizations. The second core basics to uphold the ethics in a fashion industry strives for the production quantities efficiency and efficiency use of materials. “It is important to make sure that the designer creation will not make more waste,” Diaz said. From Diaz perspective as business director, waste from fashion industry will always increase if there is a wrong distribution system applied. For example, a consignment system in almost of the fashion retail in Indonesia. “The solution for this problem is a transparent distribution and selling system, by determining a rational number of items that the store wants to order. If the items already produced with a certain impossible number only to reach the intentions of the store, what we have to do with the items that left unsold?” said Diaz on point. Designer and workers can also do something to make a less waste of their creation to achieved the efficiency use of materials, demanding a great skill of the designer in a process of patterns making. Patterns is one of the key to do so the fabrics will not produce a lot of waste. After Diaz describing about patterns, Wilsen grab a pen and looking for an empty paper. He started to draw and showing it to me, “Imagine if I draw a pattern here, I would have a few fabrics that having an ugly shape that I could not even use and make more waste.” “But if I draw a pattern here, I would have a better and long fabrics that I could use as another material for my creation.” Wilsen changed his expression easily after drop the pen, he is feeling guilty by using 100% cotton as a main material of all his creation. It is true that he already done everything that he can, to uphold the ethics in his fashion label in purpose of creating a better sustainable life. “But based on my research, cotton plant is contemning the soil with acid and pesticide that used for cotton plant is growing stone inside human body. My consideration about this is because cotton is the most durable fashion material for daily routines nowadays,” said Wilsen. Wilsen believe nobody is perfect, and putting ourselves in a maximum effort is the only possible way to be done. He having his own consideration why he does the things. I also believe that he made his choices because he wants to help his surroundings to live well, and to create a proper ecology, economic, or social aspects of the society. Wilsen sincere purposes is the most important thing. It is because his fashion label is only two years in the making, there is still many process that he and Diaz should take to improve their brand so it always be better. Diaz and Wilsen hope that incident of the Rana Plaza building collapsed, place to produce textile and garment products in Dhaka, Bangladesh, on April 24, 2013, will be a wakeup call for everyone. Especially, the people behind fashion industry. 1,133 victims died as a result of fashion industry that abandoning their surroundings to live well. Also, a failure to create proper ecology, economic, and social aspects of the society © Adi Perkasa for LookGoodFeelGoodId
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